Rocchino of Cavrenno
Located near the Raticosa Pass, on the border between Emilia-Romagna and Tuscany, the Rocchino cliff (also known as Rocca di Cavrenno) is a spectacular limestone spur, a true geological rarity in the Apennines.
Divided into three climbing sectors, this formation is especially popular in summer, thanks to the cool breeze brought by the wind from Tuscany.
Although the rock can be friable in some areas, making it necessary to use a helmet, the site offers numerous recently re-equipped routes, with the addition of two new sectors that are still little explored. Further developments are planned for the future, while information on the routes is usually indicated directly at the base of the routes.
The Raticosa Pass is easily accessible from both the Tuscan and Emilian sides, following the SS 65 della Futa. Once you reach the pass, continue towards Monterenzio for about a kilometer until you find, on the left, the signs for Cavrenno.
It is important to park carefully along the road, avoiding private land, and continue on foot along the path that leads to the saddle between the Rocchino and another rock formation. Although the winter period is not ideal due to the cold and wind, the summer offers a particularly pleasant experience, with routes suitable for different exposures.
The bolting varies considerably: next to old bolts dating back to the 1950s, there are modern routes equipped with 10 mm stainless steel bolts or chemical fixes. It is possible to access the summit via a normal route of moderate difficulty (grade II), using anchors suitable for top-roping. Extension slings are recommended for greater safety.
The Rocchino is made up of Calpionelle limestone, a type of rock with fossils characterized by argillitic veins.
Some areas show signs of metamorphism due to contact with magmatic rocks, making this formation unique in the Apennines.
Address: Via Cavrenno, 50033 Firenzuola FI